Water Gypsy: Jerusalem

View from the top of the walls in the old city

Israel came to me like a person ordering dessert first at their favorite restaurant. I was excited for the idea of it, but did not put much thought beyond that. I was enjoying the various courses before me – making the most of every moment and day back home - with the people and in the places I love the most. I knew dessert was coming, but I had no plans of how I would eat it……. And now I’m simply taking one bite at a time! That is the beautiful thing about this adventure – I am actually living here. I can settle in and not worry about an itinerary or travel plans, and I am very thankful for that. I have only been in Jerusalem for a few days, but I already know this place deserves more than just a visit – to truly experience the energy, communities and history one must be able to explore and observe without an agenda.

Upon arrival everyone has been very friendly and welcoming, especially at the university. The campus and residence halls are quite beautiful and seem fairly new. I have always enjoyed the energy of an academic setting – the people and surroundings are usually interesting, inspiring and challenging. The tight security around the campus and residence halls help to create a comfortable bubble where the time passes slowly and you easily forget that you are actually in Jerusalem; one of the most politically, culturally and religiously tense places on earth. Although it is a nice retreat, I have to remind myself not to get too comfortable – because the real stories are outside the gates and the bubble. Laying in bed and hearing the Muslim prayers (that are broadcast through large speakers atop several buildings) reverberating throughout the cool evening air is my reminder that I am sleeping in a foreign land.

The campus is just a 30-40 minute walk to downtown Jerusalem and the old city. I have been able to walk downtown a couple of times to explore the markets and observe the hustle and bustle of Israeli life. The area is divided between the Arab and Jewish population with invisible borders and a hanging tension in the air. Each person I have talked to in regards to these areas seem to have a different opinion – on one side it may seem like they are living side by side almost harmoniously, while on the other side you hear of the injustice with forced evictions and new settlements. It is bit early to say anything with certainty, but I am eager to gain insight into the various perspectives.

The city is also an amazing portrait of the modern and the ancient worlds side by side. At first they seem to sharply contrast, but you can also see how the city’s future rests in its ability to create a bridge between its history and its new contemporary culture. For example, in the old city market you can see a shop with ancient artifacts or beautiful crafts right next to shops that sell westernized candy and plastic toys. This scene was a bit surprising to me because I was imagining the market in the old city to only have small shops with crafts and produce, but it is more like a small mall built within ancient walls. You can find everything from Nike shoes and electronics to hand-woven Persian rugs. But it makes more sense when I remind myself that the old city is more than a tourist stop – it is a living city with approximately 15,000 people residing inside the walls. This prime real-estate is home to Jewish, Muslim & Christian people living in very close quarters. There is so much history and numerous holy places within the old city that I have yet to explore, so I will write about it more thoroughly later…..