Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Desert Life


“Strolling on, it seems to me that the strangeness and wonder of existence are emphasized here, in the desert, by the comparative sparsity of the flora and fauna: life not crowded upon life as in other places but scattered abroad in spareness and simplicity, with a generous gift of space for each herb and bush and tree, each stem of grass, so that the living organism stands out bold and brave and vivid against the lifeless sand and barren rock. The extreme clarity of the desert light is equaled by the extreme individuation of desert life-forms." - Edward Abbey

Swinging into the sunset
I have always been fascinated by desert environments & I think Abbey sums it up well in his description of the desert's simplicity.  Hiking in the desert brings a person back to this beautiful simplicity.  Being exposed to the elements you rise with the sun to take advantage of the cool morning air and follow your instincts from there..... Hiking in the stillness it seems as though the world is either at macro or micro scale and our human scale is close to non-existent to the world around us - we are only an observer.  The macro scale is in the vast open spaces - seeing for miles away and gazing at massive geological wonders.  The micro scale is beneath our feet - all of the creatures have adapted to be small and/or camouflaged and the true treasures such as ancient tiny seashells stand out like diamonds amongst the red sand.  Sometimes it is not cool water, shade or the music of a busy life that is the most refreshing - Instead, it is the thirst, the dry heat and only the sounds of our footsteps and heartbeat that bring us back to life.

Lounging Ibex
Early morning start for the desert hike...
Stairs up the canyon wall


looking out from one of the caves along the cliff that monks used to dwell in
     

The group of classmates and friends that we stayed with in Sde Boker - a small university community within the Negev

Bedouin Tent
         A note about the Bedouin of the Negev.... The term 'Bedouin' literally means desert dweller in Arabic and continues to represent the last group of nomads in the region.  The Negev desert is estimated to be home to around 150,000 Bedouins, most of which live in 'unrecognized' villages.  The Bedouin encampments seem to be just another trouble on the Israeli government's long list.  The government has passed laws restricting the Bedouins nomadic lifestyle by not permitting grazing and establishing private ownership and borders to the seemingly desolate terrain. The goats were their major source of livelihood and without their herds they lack the goat hair to weave their rugs and tents as well as food for their families.  Now the encampments are comprised of everything and anything they can find from pieces of plastic to old lumber. The government has also attempted to resettle the Bedouins into constructed 'legal' towns (many times by bulldozing their seemingly temporary establishments) - but a circle of buildings does not make a community and with no business or economy the Bedouins are struggling and the towns are failing.  Many Bedouins in 'unrecognized' encampments have begun small tourist initiatives by providing tea and pita to passing travelers (such as the tent seen in the pictures).

Relaxin' in the Bedouin tent

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